Taiwanese Bread and Baking

Taiwanese bread culture presents a unique blend of East and West. From the foundational techniques introduced during the Japanese colonial period, to the American influence after WWII, and finally to the European trends in recent years, Taiwan's baking industry has forged its own path. In 2010, Wu Bao-chun established a reputation for Taiwanese baking on the international stage by winning the European bread category at the World Cup Baking Master Competition hosted by Lesaffre in France.¹

The Wu Bao-chun Phenomenon and the Road to World Champion

In 2008, the Taiwanese team—comprising Wu Bao-chun, Cao Chi-hsiung, and Wen Shi-cheng—achieved second place in the group competition at the Lesaffre World Cup Baking Competition in Paris. In 2010, a personal event called "Les Masters de la Boulangerie" was added to this competition; participants were the top ten individuals from each team based on scores from 2008. Wu Bao-chun, who is from Neipu, Pingtung, won the European bread category with his creation, "Rice Wine Lychee Fragrance" (also known as Lychee Rose Bread).² This marked a milestone in Taiwanese baking history.

Behind Wu Bao-chun's success is a moving story. He was raised by his mother working odd jobs and farming pineapples while caring for eight children; there was no time to send them to school. After graduating from junior high, he went north alone at the age of fifteen to work as an apprentice in a bakery in Taipei. Later, friends like Chen Fu-kuang introduced him to sourdough starters and fruit dried with alcohol, leading him to start studying Japanese and French baking books by consulting dictionaries.³

The inspiration for "Rice Wine Lychee Fragrance" came from the lychee macarons of the Parisian pastry shop Ladurée, using rice wine from San Dimen in Pingtung, lychee dried from Changhua, and organic rose from Puli, Nantou.³ This practice of integrating local Taiwanese elements into Western baking later became a characteristic feature of Taiwanese bread.

Following Wu Bao-chun, Taiwanese bakers repeatedly reached the top in several international competitions. The biennial World Bread Competition (Mondial du Pain) features one baker and one assistant per team: Wu Tzu-ching won the sweet bread category in 2011; the Taiwanese team won the championship in both 2015 and 2017, with Chen Yao-chun competing in 2017.⁴⁵⁶ Wang Peng-jie, who was mentored by Wu Bao-chun, won the Art Bread category at Europain in 2018 before serving as the coach for the Taiwanese team at the World Bread Competition.⁷ In 2022, Coach Wu Wu-hsien led Wu Tzu-ching, Xu Shao-huan, and Li Zhongwei to win the group championship of the Lesaffre World Cup Baking Competition for Taiwan for the first time.⁶

The Unique Aesthetics of Taiwanese Bread

Taiwanese bread culture integrates multiple elements to form a unique "Taiwanese aesthetic." The greatest characteristic of this aesthetic is its "limitlessness"—any ingredient can become an addition to the bread, and any flavor is worth trying.

Scallion bread is the most typical Taiwanese innovation. In the eyes of Europeans, scallions and bread are completely incompatible combinations, yet in Taiwanese bakeries, it is a staple item. The bread body is soft, topped with green onions and mayonnaise, creating an astonishing mix of savory and sweet flavors. This bold spirit of innovation is the essence of Taiwanese bread.

Meat floss bread is another representative example. Meat floss, a traditional Taiwanese side dish, combined with Western bread to create a unique sensory experience. The meat floss on the outside provides umami and chewiness, while the interior bread remains soft and sweet, forming an interesting contrast.

Pineapple bun (though it contains no pineapple) gets its name from the lattice crust on top. It looks very similar to Hong Kong-style pineapple buns or Japanese melon pan; there is no definitive historical record of who invented it first.³

European Bread vs. Taiwanese Bread: A Dialogue Between Two Philosophies

In recent years, European bread has trended in Taiwan, with many bakers traveling abroad to study authentic techniques. This European trend engages in an interesting dialogue with traditional Taiwanese bread.

European bread pursues "purity." It uses natural yeast, long fermentation times, and emphasizes the quality of flour and water temperature. The finished product is usually hard on the outside and soft inside, with a solid texture and a natural tang. This type of bread requires careful tasting and slow chewing to appreciate the sweetness of the flour.

Taiwanese bread pursues "richness." With various ingredients, flavors, and shapes, the goal is to provide maximum satisfaction to the consumer. The bread body is usually softer and sweeter, making it suitable for quick consumption. This difference reflects different cultural understandings of food.

Interestingly, these two styles do not repel each other in Taiwan; instead, they complement each other. Many bakeries sell both European and Taiwanese breads simultaneously to meet the needs of different customers. Some innovative bakers even combine both techniques to create a new category called "Taiwanese European-style bread."

The International Legend of 85°C

If Wu Bao-chun represents the technical height of Taiwanese baking, then 85°C symbolizes the commercial achievement of Taiwanese baking. Founder Wu Cheng-hsuan conceived the idea while eating dessert in a five-star hotel cafe in 2003. In 2004, they opened their first store in Hsinchu County, evolving from a local Taiwanese coffee shop into an international chain: opening the first overseas store in Australia in 2006, entering Shanghai in 2007, and opening the first store in Irvine, California, USA, in 2008.⁸

The secret to 85°C's success lies in its positioning of "affordable luxury." They offer cakes and bread of five-star hotel quality but at the price point of a regular coffee shop. This strategy accurately captured consumer psychology, allowing ordinary people to enjoy exquisite baked goods.

The internationalization process was not smooth. In the Chinese market, 85°C faced intense local competition; in the US market, they had to adapt to different consumption habits. However, through continuous adjustment of product combinations and operating models, 85°C gradually established a foothold overseas.

85°C's success abroad also proves the international competitiveness of Taiwanese baking. Although techniques originate from Europe, America, and Japan, they have developed a unique style and advantage through innovation and refinement in Taiwan. This soft power export is more persuasive than any official promotion.

Baking Education and Skill Inheritance

The development of Taiwan's baking industry cannot be separated from the support of its educational system. From the early apprenticeship model to today's vocational colleges, baking education has undergone significant transformation.

Baking departments in vocational colleges have trained a large number of talents for the industry. Students not only learn basic techniques but also gain professional knowledge in food science, nutrition, and cost control. This systematic education has raised the overall professional standard of the industry.

Various baking competitions have played an important role. From school competitions to international events, these contests are platforms for technical exchange and cradles for talent cultivation. Many famous bakers gained recognition through competitions.

In recent years, baking education has also moved toward diversification. In addition to traditional technical training, courses in entrepreneurship management, food safety, and international certification have been added. This comprehensive training model makes Taiwanese baking talents more competitive in the international market.

Food Safety Challenges and Industrial Transformation

Food safety is the biggest challenge facing the baking industry. From the plasticizer storm to disputes over spice additives, every food safety incident has caused a major impact on the industry. Consumer demands for food safety are increasing, forcing businesses to establish stricter quality control systems.

Many businesses have begun adopting a "transparency" strategy, disclosing ingredient sources and production processes. Some bakeries even install open kitchens, allowing consumers to watch the production process directly. Although this practice increases costs, it also enhances consumer trust.

The rise in health consciousness has driven industrial transformation. Health-conscious breads such as low-sugar, low-oil, and whole grain are gaining popularity. While the texture may not be as good as traditional bread, they meet the needs of health-oriented consumers.

Technological innovation is another important trend. Automated equipment has increased production efficiency, freezing technology has extended shelf life, and new baking methods have created more possibilities. These innovations have not only improved product quality but also reduced labor costs.

The development trajectory of Taiwan's bread and baking industry is clear: the 2010 Master Competition win by Wu Bao-chun, the Taiwanese team winning the World Bread Competition twice in 2015 and 2017, the group championship at the Lesaffre World Cup Baking Competition in 2022, coupled with 85°C expanding from Taiwan into China, Australia, and the United States—the international competitiveness of Taiwanese baking is supported by tangible results, extending from production to branding.

Image Source

• Hero: Taiwan pineapple cake, Photo Kwb, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain.

References

Further Reading

• Wu Bao-chun Mofang Store — The official website of Wu Bao-chun's bakery; the first store opened in Kaohsiung in 2010.
• Industrial Research Institute of Grain Foods (Taiwan) — A research institution for baking industry technology.