44 South Village: A Military Dependents' Village for an Arsenal, Now a Cultural and Creative Park Beside Taipei 101

At the end of November 1948, the machinery of Qingdao's Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal was loaded in six batches onto the Taikang and shipped to Keelung. In December, factory workers and their dependents arrived next and moved into the former Japanese army Xingya warehouses in Sanzhangli, east of Taipei, where Shandong speech echoed through storerooms with no walls. The following year, they built their own dependents' housing south of the factory compound. This became the first military dependents' village established in Taiwan by the Republic of China government. Field-grade and general officers lived in the West Village, company-grade officers in the East Village, and Shandong technicians without military status in the South Village. In 1980, the arsenal moved to Sanxia and was renamed Factory 206. The West Village was demolished and became Zhongtuo Public Housing, while the East Village was relocated to Zhongzhen Public Housing near Youth Park. Only the South Village remained, because its residents were technicians and did not fall under the Ministry of National Defense's military dependents' village reconstruction regulations. In 1998, all residents moved into World Trade New Village. In 1999, a fire destroyed part of the housing. In 2001, a cultural-heritage dispute ended with the decision to preserve four buildings. On October 25, 2003, the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents' Village Cultural Park opened, facing the Taipei 101 then under construction.

30-second overview: At the end of November 1948, as the Chinese Civil War reached a crisis, the machinery and equipment of the Combined Logistics Headquarters 44th Arsenal in Qingdao were loaded in six batches onto the Taikang and arrived at Keelung Harbor1. In December, the factory workers and their dependents who arrived afterward were temporarily housed in the former Japanese army Xingya warehouses in Sanzhangli, where in the early period they “began living with cloth curtains as partitions”2. The following year, they began building dependents’ housing on their own south of the factory compound. In this way, the Republic of China government’s first military dependents’ village in Taiwan took shape3. The village was divided into three by rank: field-grade and general officers lived in the West Village, company-grade officers lived in the East Village, and factory workers without military status lived in the South Village1. In 1978-1980, the arsenal, already renamed Factory 206, moved to Sanxia. The West Village was demolished and redeveloped as Zhongtuo Public Housing, while the East Village was relocated to Zhongzhen Public Housing near Youth Park4. Only the South Village remained, because its residents were technicians and did not fall under the Ministry of National Defense’s military dependents’ village reconstruction regulations5. In 1998, all South Village residents moved into World Trade New Village. In 1999, a fire burned down part of the dependents’ housing. In 2001, a cultural-heritage dispute ended with the decision to preserve four symmetrical buildings. On October 25, 2003, the “Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park” opened, facing the Taipei 101 then under construction6. This article asks how a Shandong technicians’ dependents’ village that came by ship from Qingdao became the historic landscape beside Taipei 101 where foreign tourists check in every day, and where the more than 1,000 families who once lived here went.

Two Taipeis in the Plaza at 3 p.m. on a Weekend

Panorama of 44 South Village. The four preserved brick-and-tile bungalows enclose a grass plaza, with the high-rises of the Xinyi Planning District under construction in 2013 in the background. The dependents' housing of 1948 stands alongside the steel and glass of the twenty-first century.
September 2013, panorama of 44 South Village. Photo: Men1399. License via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).

If you ask a Taipei resident where 44 South Village is, they will probably say, “that little park with a military dependents’ village feel next to Taipei 101.”

At three o’clock on a weekend afternoon, walk out of Exit 2 of Taipei 101/World Trade Center MRT Station, turn left onto Zhuangjing Road, and you will arrive in five minutes. The plaza is full of people. A pair of Korean tourists turn a phone horizontally, trying to fit the low red-tile roofs and the 401-meter Taipei 101 due north into the same frame7. A resident walking a golden retriever passes by; the dog stops at the entrance of Building B, the Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Relics Exhibition Hall, and sniffs for a long time. The Simple Market, held on Sundays from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m., has already set up: handmade accessories, cultural-and-creative farm products, and a street singer sitting by the grass playing guitar8.

Four brick-walled, red-tile bungalows enclose a central plaza. The building on the north side is Building A, now the Xinyi Parent-Child Center, administered by the Department of Social Welfare. Building B on the east side is the Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Relics Exhibition Hall, with permanent displays of furniture, everyday objects, and traces of foods such as pancakes and fried dough twists. Building C on the south side used to be called Good Cho’s; opened in early 2011, it pushed 44 South Village into the view of Taipei’s young people through bagels and cultural-and-creative markets. Building D on the west side is an arts and performance space for small theater, a bookstore, and lectures9.

If you look up due north, the red aviation warning lights of Taipei 101 are flashing. If you look down at the footprints on the plaza, this is where the Shandong technicians who came by ship from Qingdao in 1948 dried quilts, burned coal-ball stoves, and wrapped dumplings for Lunar New Year.

📝 Curator’s note: 44 South Village is not an ordinary military dependents’ village. First, it was the first military dependents’ village established in Taiwan by the Republic of China government, built in 1948-1949 by employees and dependents of the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal who came by ship from Qingdao3. Second, its residents were “factory workers” or Shandong technicians without military status or rank5, and institutionally were not counted in the category of “military dependents.” Third, it was the first military dependents’ village in Taipei City to be listed as a historic building, with four buildings preserved in 2003 as the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park6. These three “firsts” together made 44 South Village an emblematic case in Taiwan’s preservation of military dependents’ villages: a village that originally should not have been preserved, because it did not fall under the reconstruction regulations, but ultimately became the first in the country to be preserved, after the intervention of the cultural affairs bureau.

Where the Name Came From: South of the 44th Arsenal

The name “44 South Village” is tied directly to an arsenal.

The predecessor of the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal, or “Factory 44” for short, can be traced to the Central Ordnance Repair Works established in Nanjing in 193610. At the end of November 1948, as the Chinese Civil War situation deteriorated rapidly, the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal stationed in Qingdao faced relocation. The Arsenal Administration decided to first load machinery and equipment in six batches onto the Taikang and ship them to Taiwan, using the former Japanese military’s “Taiwan Supply Bureau Third Ordnance Repair Works” left from the Japanese colonial period to resume production and continue making artillery shells in preparation for a future counteroffensive1.

In December, the factory workers and dependents who arrived later disembarked at Keelung Harbor and were placed in the “Japanese army’s Xingya warehouses,” military warehouses left by the Japanese army in the Sanzhangli area east of Taipei during the Japanese colonial period11. Initial living conditions were extremely poor. The National Museum of Taiwan History records that “at the beginning, the arsenal’s employees and dependents made the factory their home”3, while the Veterans Affairs Council’s veterans culture website records that “in the early period, employees lived inside the arsenal warehouses, beginning life with cloth curtains as partitions”2.

The following year, 1949, the arsenal began building dependents’ housing on its own south of the factory compound. Because it was located south of the 44th Arsenal, it was named “44 South Village”11. The village’s housing was divided by construction sequence into three major building groups labeled Bing, Yi, and Jia12. Most were single-story buildings with mixed brick-and-timber structures, narrow lanes, small rooms, and shared toilets2.

“Most residents were Shandong people”1. This is a crucial detail, because the arsenal had originally been stationed in Qingdao, and the employees and dependents who retreated to Taiwan were mainly from Shandong Province. The stereotype of Taiwan’s postwar military dependents’ villages is often “Sichuan-Yangzhou cuisine and Sichuan speech,” but the food of 44 South Village was Shandong in style: pancakes, fried dough twists, cornbread buns, and a snack called “qizi,” made by rolling flour and sugar flat, pan-frying it, and cutting it into small squares2. The village cooperative sold Shandong steamed buns and Shandong dumplings, entirely different from the dialects and foodways of the Youth Park dependents’ villages or the Dazhi naval dependents’ villages.

📝 Curator’s note: The name “Factory 44” itself carries a dense military history. It began with the Nanjing Central Ordnance Repair Works in 1936, then moved to the rear during the War of Resistance, took over Japanese military industrial assets after the war, stationed in Qingdao, retreated to Taiwan, resumed operations in Sanzhangli, and in 1980 moved again to Sanxia and was renamed Factory 206. Of its seven relocations, two, Qingdao to Taiwan and Sanzhangli to Sanxia, wrote its fate directly into Taiwan’s landscape. 44 South Village is the physical trace left between those two migrations. It is also the physical trace left in Taiwan by Shandong employees and dependents from the Qingdao period. What the Taikang carried over in 1948 was not only machinery, but an entire set of Shandong speech, Shandong wheat foods, and Shandong habits, which later fermented for fifty years on the patch of grass beside Taipei 101.

One Arsenal Sustained Three Villages: Officers, Junior Officers, and Technicians

To understand 44 South Village, one must also know the two sibling villages that have disappeared: 44 West Village and 44 East Village.

According to the personnel structure after the arsenal moved to Taiwan, Factory 44 personnel could roughly be divided into three levels: senior officers, including field-grade and company-grade officers; ordinary mid- and lower-ranking military personnel; and technicians without military status1. The following year, the three villages were assigned by rank: the West Village housed field-grade and general officers and was located on Section 1 of Keelung Road; the East Village housed company-grade officers and was located in Lane 260, Wuxing Street; the South Village housed non-military technicians and was located on Section 5 of Xinyi Road413. All three villages were near the factory compound and reachable on foot.

Rank differences were reflected in material conditions. The housing in 44 West Village was of a higher specification, though living conditions were poor. 44 East Village housed mid-level company-grade military personnel. 44 South Village housed factory workers with the lowest status, without military appointment or rank4. One arsenal produced three military dependents’ villages of different grades, a material projection of the Nationalist government’s military tradition of clear hierarchy and graded housing.

But three decades later, history gave the three villages very different outcomes.

44 West Village: Demolished and redeveloped in place in 1980. In 1983, “Zhongtuo Public Housing” was completed. “Zhong” means loyalty; “tuo” means camel bell. The public housing name continued the dependents’ village’s anti-communist national symbols, but the building itself was already a reinforced-concrete multi-story apartment block, with none of the lanes of a dependents’ village4.

44 East Village: Relocated to “Zhongzhen Public Housing” near Youth Park. The two characters “Zhongzhen,” meaning loyal and steadfast, directly borrowed the naming logic of Zhongzhen New Village in Zhongli, Taoyuan, preserving an object of military dependents’ village memory in the name of new public housing, even though the physical buildings had changed14.

44 South Village: Residents were not fully moved out until 1998. Their destination was “World Trade New Village” on the edge of Xinyi District. Why did it take so long? Because “the main body of South Village residents were factory workers, without military status or rank, creating a conflict over eligibility under the Ministry of National Defense’s dependents’ village reconstruction regulations”5. The Ministry of National Defense’s reconstruction regulations were for military personnel; factory workers were institutionally not counted as “dependents’ households,” and how to calculate compensation became a long-running unresolved dispute15.

📝 Curator’s note: This story of an “institutional blind spot” is a side of Taiwan’s military dependents’ village history that is rarely told. The Ministry of National Defense’s reconstruction regulations assumed that residents of dependents’ villages were military family members, so the formula for relocation compensation was based on military rank. But residents of 44 South Village were arsenal technicians. They had state-assigned living space and pay slips from the arsenal, but no military rank. When the West Village and East Village were smoothly redeveloped according to rank, South Village residents were stuck for twenty years in a gray zone of “not dependents’ households, but living in a dependents’ village.” This twenty-year delay unexpectedly saved 44 South Village. Because it was not demolished in time, it later had a chance to be preserved as cultural heritage. Not falling under the regulations changed from a disadvantage into a condition of survival.

Emptied in 1998, Burned in 1999, Decided in 2001

The demolition of 44 South Village was a tug-of-war.

Late 1980s: Planning for the Xinyi Planning District had been brewing since 1976, when the Executive Yuan instructed that the 44th Arsenal be relocated. In 1977, Mayor Lin Yang-kang added the concept of a “secondary city center.” In 1980-1981, the city government announced the main plan and detailed plan16. The former arsenal land was designated for public facilities, including residential districts around Songzhi Road and Songqin Road and commercial districts around Songshou Road and Songgao Road16. 44 South Village was also drawn into the urban renewal area.

1990s: Compensation negotiations for South Village residents under the dependents’ village reconstruction program repeatedly stalled. The housing aged, leaked, and suffered serious termite damage. Waves of residents moved out under individual agreements.

1998: Only then did all South Village residents finish moving out, relocating to the completed World Trade New Village redevelopment4.

1999: A fire broke out in 44 South Village, burning down part of the dependents’ housing15. At the time, the fire was seen as a signal that demolition would accelerate. Since the houses had already burned, demolishing the whole village and replanning the site seemed the next logical step.

But the “logical” outcome did not happen.

1999-2001: Dependents’ village residents, cultural-heritage scholars, and community workers formed the “44 South Village National Historic Monument Promotion Alliance,” launched a series of movements to preserve military dependents’ village culture, and established the “44 South Village Cultural History Studio”17. Their argument was that 44 South Village was the first military dependents’ village established in Taiwan by the Republic of China government, and the first material evidence documenting Mainlanders’ retreat from China to Taiwan and their self-built housing. If the whole village were demolished, there would be no visible object left for this history.

“The demolition case for 44 South Village remained unresolved until it was formally decided in 2001”15. The 2001 decision was a compromise between the two sides: neither preserving the whole village nor demolishing it entirely.

Preservation plan: Demolish most of the dependents’ housing, but leave four representative symmetrical buildings around the central plaza.

Preservation scope: A site area of about 4,150 ping and building floor area of about 720 ping9.

Procedure: After inspection by the Taipei City Department of Cultural Affairs’ historic monument review committee, 44 South Village was listed as a “historic building,” and the four preserved buildings entered planning and redevelopment9.

⚠️ Contested view: The 2001 “demolish nine, preserve four” plan, meaning demolition of most of the village and preservation of four buildings, was controversial even then. On one side, cultural-heritage circles felt that at least some material evidence had been preserved. On the other, some residents and more radical cultural-heritage advocates felt that four buildings were too few to sustain the overall texture of military dependents’ village culture. In retrospect, these four buildings can indeed present only a material fragment of the village: the lanes are gone, the cooperative is gone, and the arsenal bell at the street corner is gone. But those four buildings were also the limit of negotiation at the time. Without the cultural-heritage dispute of 2001, even those four buildings would have been razed. Between “imperfect preservation” and “complete disappearance” lay the real boundary of military dependents’ village cultural preservation in Taiwan in 2001.

The Day of Rebirth: Buildings A, B, C, and D

October 25, 2003, was the day 44 South Village was reborn.

That day, the “Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park” appeared with a new look9. The site area was about 4,150 ping, with building floor area of about 720 ping. Compared with the original village, this was a severely compressed version. But the four symmetrical brick-walled, red-tile bungalows enclosed a central plaza, and the air-raid shelter beside them was transformed into a small grassy hill. Together with holiday market events, the site had become a place for Taipei residents to walk and relax9.

Each of the four buildings has its own function[^9]:

  • Building A: Xinyi Parent-Child Center, administered by the Taipei City Department of Social Welfare, offering a play space with “natural wood and handmade teaching aids for parent-child play”
  • Building B: Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Relics Exhibition Hall, a static exhibition on 44 South Village’s historical trajectory, dependents’ village arts and literature, dependents’ village mothers, dependents’ village food, dependents’ village life, dependents’ village games, dependents’ village crafts, and a multimedia screening room, open free Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00-17:00
  • Building C: Good Cho’s cultural-and-creative dining and lifestyle space, operated by Good Cho’s and opened in early 201118
  • Building D: Arts, bookstore, and theater space

Exterior of Building A of the Xinyi Assembly Hall at 44 South Village, a red-brick, red-tile bungalow in 2007. The dependents' village lanes have been replaced by a plaza, but the building itself preserves the low form of the housing first built in 1948-1949.
May 2007, exterior of the preserved dependents’ housing at 44 South Village. Photo: Prattflora. License via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).

Walk into Building B and the first thing you meet is the permanent exhibition on the historical trajectory of 44 South Village. In old photographs on the wall, Shandong aunties and grandmothers air quilts in the plaza, factory workers walk home from the factory gate after work, and children kick shuttlecocks in the lanes. In one 1962 group photo of the cooperative, the words “Factory 44 Welfare Cooperative” can be made out. In that era every military dependents’ village had a cooperative, and what it sold was adjusted according to the provincial-origin preferences of the village. The cooperative at 44 South Village sold Shandong steamed buns, Shandong dumplings, and Shandong pancakes.

The display cases preserve everyday objects from that time: coal-ball stoves, enamel washbasins, aluminum lunch boxes printed with the Blue Sky with a White Sun emblem, and children’s literacy textbooks. One glass case displays “qizi,” a snack made by rolling flour and sugar flat, pan-frying it, and cutting it into squares2. The taste of Shandong is statically preserved in this exhibition hall, but when you walk out of Building B and into Good Cho’s in Building C, you smell a bagel oven.

Two smells exist at the same time on a 4,150-ping site.

Good Cho’s Moves In: Building D and a New Generation of “Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Creativity”

Good Cho’s in Building C is the entrance through which a new generation of Taipei residents came to know 44 South Village.

In early 2011, Good Cho’s Xinyi store opened in 44 South Village, at “No. 54, Songqin Street”18. Good Cho’s positioned itself as a composite space of “bagels + curated goods + market + cultural activities.” You can buy savory and sweet bagels they bake, cultural-and-creative products by Taiwanese designers, and organic produce delivered directly by farmers. On Sunday afternoons, the “Simple Market” sets up outside in the plaza, running every Sunday from 13:00 to 19:008.

For young Taipei residents who only came to know 44 South Village after the 2010s, Good Cho’s is the representative face of the place. On Instagram, 80% of the photos tagged “#44SouthVillage” are Good Cho’s bagels, Good Cho’s sign, and the grass in front of Good Cho’s. For older second-generation residents of the dependents’ village, this transformation is double-edged. On the one hand, Good Cho’s revived the popularity of this site; without foot traffic, the four buildings might not have lasted until 2026. On the other hand, bagels and Shandong steamed buns are not the same food, and a cultural-and-creative market is not the same space as the village cooperative.

Red-brick bungalows and drainage channel details at the Xinyi Assembly Hall in 44 South Village, 2016. The building exteriors preserve the form of the 1948-1949 dependents' housing, but the interiors have been converted into exhibition halls and cultural-and-creative dining spaces.
November 2016, details of the preserved red-brick bungalows at 44 South Village. Photo: Mizuhara gumi. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

⚠️ Contested view: The phrase “military dependents’ village cultural creativity” carries tension in itself. A dependents’ village was a material space hurriedly constructed by post-1949 migrants. Its characteristics were density, low buildings, shared facilities, and poverty: a form squeezed out of life. Cultural creativity is a curatorial space under twenty-first-century capital logic. Its characteristics are selection, added value, narrative, and consumability: a form added at the level of design. Turning a dependents’ village into a cultural-and-creative space is, to some extent, packaging memories of deprivation as a consumable “atmosphere product.” Whether Good Cho’s bagels taste good is one matter; standing in the 44 South Village plaza eating a bagel and standing at the cooperative entrance in 1962 eating a Shandong steamed bun are two different times and spaces. This tension recurs in Taiwan’s cases of military dependents’ village cultural preservation, from Mingde New Village in Zuoying, Kaohsiung, to the dependents’ village beside National Tsing Hua University in Hsinchu and Zhongzhen New Village in Taoyuan. All face the same question: preserving objects is easy; preserving a way of life is impossible.

The Arsenal Bell Is Now Taipei 101’s Aviation Warning Light

Walk 200 meters south out of the 44 South Village plaza and you reach Taipei 101.

The contrast between the two buildings is one of Taipei’s most photographed “history vs. modernity” juxtapositions: red-tile bungalows built by Shandong technicians who came from Qingdao in 1948, beside a 508-meter supertall completed in 200419. The dependents’ village’s low profile and Taipei 101’s verticality; the village’s red brick and Taipei 101’s glass curtain wall; the arsenal bell and Taipei 101’s aviation warning light.

44 South Village bungalows and Taipei 101 side by side. The red-tile roofs of the 1948 dependents' housing share a frame with the 508-meter supertall completed in 2004, one of Taipei's most commonly photographed “history vs. modernity” contrast scenes among foreign tourists.
_March 2017, 44 South Village and Taipei 101 in the same frame. Photo: Hal Maa. License via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0).*

Geographically, the two buildings stand on the same former site of the 44th Arsenal.

In 1976, the Executive Yuan instructed that the 44th Arsenal be relocated, and the land was to be used for military, civil-service, education personnel, and public housing16. In 1977, Mayor Lin Yang-kang added the idea of a “secondary city center.” From 1978, the arsenal, already renamed Factory 206, successively moved to its new plant in Sanxia, completing the move in 19804. In 1980-1981, the main plan and detailed plan for the Xinyi Planning District were announced. Architect Kuo Mao-lin, who had lived in Japan, suggested adding the concept of a commercial center in addition to housing and a municipal center16. From 1981 to 1986, the “Songshan District Phase II Urban Land Readjustment” was formally carried out, obtaining land for public facilities. After the 1990s, high-rises rose one by one in the Xinyi Planning District: the World Trade Center, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Xinyi Place, and the Eslite Songyan store. In 1999, Xinyi Junior High School was demolished. In 2004, Taipei 101 was completed on this land19.

The sound of the arsenal bell that marked artillery-shell production disappeared. A 401-meter lightning rod took its place.

💡 Did you know: Taipei 101 as seen from the 44 South Village plaza is not a “coincidental neighbor.” The entire Taipei 101 site was originally the factory compound of the 44th Arsenal. After the arsenal moved to Sanxia in 1980, the land was designated as the Xinyi Planning District and divided into different zones. The site of Taipei 101 was originally Xinyi Junior High School. In 1999, Xinyi Junior High was demolished; the site was won by the international financial center development project and completed in 2004. In other words, the two buildings you see while standing in the 44 South Village plaza are actually “two remainders of the arsenal”: the land to the south became a 401-meter financial tower, while this small corner to the north preserved four dependents’ houses. The geographic inheritance is more direct than the cultural contrast.

Three Places Locals Would Take You

If you come to 44 South Village, tourists will all take the Taipei 101 contrast photo, but these three places are where fewer people stop to look.

The air-raid shelter behind Building B: A small air-raid shelter from the period is still preserved among the four symmetrical buildings9. During the Cold War in the 1950s and 1960s, every military dependents’ village had air-raid drills. When the alarm sounded, residents ran in designated directions into the shelter. Today the shelter has been transformed into “South Village Hill”: grass grows over it, and from outside it looks like a green mound about one meter high, but from a distance you can see that it has an artificial curved shape. Sit on top for a moment and you can see the full line of Taipei 101 due north, along with the red-tile roofs close enough below to touch.

The “dependents’ village canteen” menu at Good Cho’s in Building C: Good Cho’s is known for bagels, but the interior of Building C also preserves some menu items that pay homage to Shandong dependents’ village food20. On weekends there are occasionally limited items such as Shandong pancakes and wonton soup. If you happen to encounter them, order one with a cup of coffee, and in the same afternoon you can taste both “a contemporary interpretation of dependents’ village food” and “the new Taipei of the cultural-and-creative market.”

Little Hyatt South Village Eatery in the lanes near 44 South Village: It is not inside the park, but it is very close. Walk out of the 44 South Village plaza to Section 5 of Xinyi Road, and in the lanes there is a shop called “Little Hyatt South Village Eatery”21, serving affordable dependents’ village flavors: fried noodles, braised dishes, and rolled flatbreads. The owner is a descendant of a family that came from Qingdao in 1949. Compared with Good Cho’s bagels, this eatery is “the dependents’ village flavor that is truly still alive.” Compared with the static displays in the museum, it is still doing business and still selling Shandong snacks to nearby office workers for lunch.

The central plaza of 44 South Village and the enclosed space formed by the four preserved buildings, 2016. The weekend Simple Market sets up on this grass, and beyond it lies the direction of Taipei 101.
November 2016, central plaza of 44 South Village. Photo: Mizuhara gumi. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

The Taikang of 1948, Seventy-Seven Years Later

Walk back to the 44 South Village plaza and sit for a while.

At the end of November 1948, the Taikang sailed out of Qingdao Harbor. On board was the machinery and equipment of the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal, shipped in six batches. In December, the factory workers and dependents who arrived later landed at Keelung Harbor and were housed in the former Japanese army Xingya warehouses in Sanzhangli. The following year, they began building dependents’ housing on their own south of the factory compound: the Republic of China government’s first military dependents’ village in Taiwan.

Seventy-seven years later, most of the people that the Taikang carried over are no longer here. Some of their children live in World Trade New Village, some moved to Songshan or Neihu, and some went to the United States or Canada. Their grandchildren may have no idea that their grandparents once lived in a place called 44 South Village.

But the former arsenal site has not disappeared completely. It left behind four brick-and-tile bungalows: in Building A, children play every day with teaching aids; in Building B, coal-ball stoves and enamel washbasins from that time are statically displayed; in Building C, bagels and coffee are sold; in Building D, there is small theater and a bookstore.

It also left behind the 401-meter Taipei 101: another remainder of the same arsenal compound, built on the former site of Xinyi Junior High School.

At three o’clock on a weekend afternoon, foreign tourists in the plaza are still taking photographs, framing the dependents’ housing of 1948 with the financial center of the twenty-first century. Most of them do not know that the two buildings stand within the same arsenal compound. They do not need to know.

But the next time you stand on this grass, you will know.

Further reading:

  • Taipei City — a 12-district panorama that places 44 South Village back into Xinyi District and the broader timeline of Taipei among Taiwan’s 22 counties and cities
  • Development of Taiwan’s Cultural and Creative Parks — from Huashan to Songyan to 44 South Village, Taiwan’s model of “cultural-heritage preservation + cultural-and-creative occupancy”
  • Taiwanese Military Dependents’ Village Cuisine — Shandong pancakes, Hunan cured meat, Sichuan dan dan noodles: the material traces of dependents’ village food geography and provincial origins
  • Taiwan’s Provincial-Origin Tensions — from the first to the second and third generations of Mainlanders, seeing postwar Taiwan’s ethnic structure through 44 South Village
  • Taipei 101 — the 401-meter supertall visible from the 44 South Village plaza; together with the dependents’ housing, it is one of two remainders of the same arsenal site
  • Dadaocheng — a sibling in the same Batch 1 historic district series; a Qing-period commercial street and a postwar dependents’ village mark two different “moments when streets took shape” in Taipei
  • Ximending — a sibling in the same Batch 1 historic district series; a Japanese-period entertainment district and a postwar dependents’ village are two types of legacy left by the Japanese
  • Yongkang Street — two modes of settlement after the 1949 Mainlander migration to Taiwan: material contrasts between dependents’ housing and the takeover of Japanese-style dormitories
  • Guling Street — the postwar Nanhai Academy and Guling Street used-book district form another Mainlander intellectual landscape, contrasting with 44 South Village’s arsenal dependents’ housing as two postwar Mainlander settlement structures: “literati vs. military industry”

Image Sources

This article uses five CC / PD-licensed images, all cached in public/article-images/geography/ to avoid hotlinking source servers:

References

  1. 44 South Village — Wikipedia — The Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records core historical facts including that “the predecessor of the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal was the Central Ordnance Repair Works established in Nanjing in 1936,” that it “moved from Qingdao to Taiwan in November 1948,” that “the machinery and equipment were first shipped to Taiwan in six batches aboard the Taikang,” that “most residents were Shandong people,” and that “members who moved to Taiwan with the arsenal could roughly be divided into three levels: field-grade and general officers, ordinary mid- and lower-ranking military personnel, and technicians without military status; though all were part of the 44 dependents’ villages, field-grade and general officers lived in the West Village, ordinary military personnel in the East Village, and civilian technicians in the South Village.”
  2. Taipei City Xinyi Assembly Hall: Memories of 44 South Village — Veterans Affairs Council Veterans Culture Website — The Veterans Affairs Council veterans culture website entry “Memories of 44 South Village” records details of dependents’ village life, including that “in the early period, employees lived inside the arsenal warehouses, beginning life with cloth curtains as partitions,” that “Bing, Yi, and Jia housing was built between Republic of China years 37 and 40,” that “the rate of intermarriage among the second generation was high,” that “people helped one another make food during festivals,” that “mahjong was the most common leisure activity,” that “distinctive foods made by villagers included pancakes, fried dough twists, and cornbread buns,” and that “‘qizi’ meant flour and sugar rolled flat, pan-fried, and then cut into small squares to eat as a snack.”
  3. 44 South Village — National Museum of Taiwan History, “This Land, These People” Online Exhibition — The National Museum of Taiwan History’s “This Land, These People: Stories of Taiwan” online museum entry on 44 South Village records the central, officially recognized historical core: “moved from Qingdao to Taiwan in November 1948; resumed work in December at the Japanese military warehouses in Taipei’s Sanzhangli; at the beginning the arsenal’s employees and dependents made the factory their home, and built a dependents’ village south of the factory compound, becoming Taiwan’s first dependents’ village,” along with “all residents of 44 South Village moved out in 1999” and “the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park was established in 2003.”
  4. 3. 44 South Village and 44 West Village — University of Taipei Xinyi District Cultural-Historical Map — The University of Taipei’s Xinyi District Cultural-Historical Map, an academic site, records specific documentary details on the differences among the three villages, including that “the West Village has been demolished and redeveloped as Zhongtuo Public Housing,” that “in 1980, 44 West Village was officially demolished and redeveloped, and by 1983 the public housing was completed,” that the South Village’s “main residents were non-commissioned officers, soldiers, and workers,” that the West Village’s “main residents were officers,” including “field-grade and company-grade officers,” and that its location was “within today’s Jingxin Village, Xinyi District.”
  5. 44 South Village — Wikipedia § Demolition and Preservation — The Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records specific documentary details on the institutional blind spot and cultural-heritage dispute during demolition: “because the main body of residents in 44 South Village were factory workers without military status or rank, there was a conflict over eligibility under the Ministry of National Defense’s dependents’ village reconstruction regulations; moreover, South Village households were numerous and complex, and no agreement on relocation and redevelopment compensation could be reached for a long time,” along with “many cultural figures opposed total demolition and demanded that some representative buildings be preserved” and “the demolition case for 44 South Village remained unresolved until it was formally decided in 2001.”
  6. 44 South Village — Historic Building — National Cultural Heritage Database — The Ministry of Culture’s National Cultural Heritage Database entry for 44 South Village, historic building registration number 20031223000001, formally lists it as a Taipei City Department of Cultural Affairs historic building, with four symmetrical buildings preserved as the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park.
  7. Taipei 101 — Wikipedia — The Wikipedia entry on Taipei 101 records basic information including “total height 508 meters including antenna,” “officially completed and opened on December 31, 2004,” and “located at No. 7, Section 5, Xinyi Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City.” The 44 South Village plaza is about 200 meters due north of Taipei 101.
  8. 44 South Village Simple Market — La Vie — La Vie magazine’s in-depth report on the 44 South Village Simple Market records that it is “a site for sharing, exchange, and sales that combines handmade creative products, agricultural products, music, and more, one of the few markets in Taiwan combining culture, agriculture, and music,” and that it operates every Sunday from 13:00 to 19:00.
  9. Introduction to Xinyi Assembly Hall — Taipei City Xinyi District Office — The Taipei City Government Xinyi District Office’s official page for the Xinyi Assembly Hall records official authoritative information, including that “on October 25, 2003, it appeared with a new look as the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park,” that the “site area is about 4,150 ping and building floor area about 720 ping,” that “four symmetrical buildings” were preserved, and the functions of Building A (parent-child center, administered by the Department of Social Welfare), Building B (Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Relics Exhibition Hall), Building C (Good Cho’s cultural-and-creative dining and lifestyle space), and Building D (arts, bookstore, and theater building).
  10. Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal — Wikipedia — The Wikipedia entry on the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal records that its “predecessor was the Central Ordnance Repair Works established in Nanjing in 1936,” followed by relocation to the rear during the War of Resistance, takeover of Japanese military industrial assets after the war, stationing in Qingdao, retreat to Taiwan in 1948, resumption of factory operations in Sanzhangli, and relocation to Sanxia in 1978-1980 with renaming as Factory 206.
  11. Kinmen Daily — 44 South Village Series Report — The Kinmen Daily global information network report records that “the Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal of the Qingdao Arsenal Administration first shipped machinery and equipment to Taiwan in six batches aboard the Taikang, using the Japanese military’s former Taiwan Supply Bureau Third Ordnance Repair Works to resume factory operations; then, in December, the later-arriving factory workers and dependents settled in Songshan,” that they were “temporarily housed in the Japanese army’s Xingya warehouses,” and gives concrete records of the three villages’ locations and rank divisions: “South Village: Bing housing built on Section 5 of Xinyi Road,” “East Village: Lane 260, Wuxing Street,” “West Village: Section 1, Keelung Road,” and “housing assignment was divided by rank, with field-grade and general officers in the West Village, company-grade officers in the East Village, and non-military technicians in the South Village.”
  12. 44 South Village — Wikipedia § Architecture — The architecture section of the Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records that it was “divided into three major building groups labeled Jia, Yi, and Bing,” that its location was “No. 50, Songqin Street, within the area where Songqin Street and Zhuangjing Road meet,” and that its extent included “Section 5 of Xinyi Road, Section 2 of Keelung Road, Songping Road, and Zhuangjing Road.”
  13. A Cultural Oasis in the Center of Metropolitan Taipei: 44 South Village — Veterans Affairs Council Veterans Culture Website — The Veterans Affairs Council veterans culture website’s special page on 44 South Village records official documentary information, including that it was “built by employees and dependents of the 44th Arsenal who moved to Taiwan from Qingdao in mainland China,” that “community residents and cultural figures launched a series of dependents’ village cultural preservation movements to prevent the remaining buildings from being entirely demolished,” and that the Taipei City Government Department of Cultural Affairs “formally listed 44 South Village as a ‘historic building,’” preserving four symmetrical buildings and reopening them on October 25, 2003.
  14. 44 South Village — Wikipedia § Dependents’ Village Reconstruction and Move-Out — The dependents’ village reconstruction section of the Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records a concrete timeline: “the East Village was relocated to ‘Zhongzhen Public Housing’ near Youth Park, and the West Village was redeveloped in place as ‘Zhongtuo Public Housing,’” that “South Village residents moved out later; only in Republic of China year 87 (1998) did all South Village residents move out and relocate to the completed World Trade New Village redevelopment,” and that “the 44th Arsenal has disappeared and become the site of the Xinyi Planning District.”
  15. Brief History and Chronology of 44 South Village — Wikipedia § Cultural Preservation Movement — The cultural preservation section of the Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records key timeline points in the preservation movement, including that “residents of 44 South Village all moved out in Republic of China year 88 (1999),” that “under the dependents’ village cultural preservation movement launched by community residents and cultural figures, 44 South Village was also the first preserved dependents’ village,” that “until it was demolished after a fire in 1999, most of it still retained the appearance it had fifty years earlier,” and that the case “was not formally decided until 2001.”
  16. Xinyi Planning District — Wikipedia — The Wikipedia entry on the Xinyi Planning District records the planning timeline: “in 1975, the Executive Yuan instructed that the 44th Arsenal be relocated, planning to use the land for military, civil-service, education personnel, and public housing,” “in 1977, Mayor Lin Yang-kang added the concept of a ‘secondary city center,’” “in 1980 the city government announced the main plan, and in 1981 the detailed plan,” “from 1981 to 1986, over five years, the ‘Songshan District Phase II Urban Land Readjustment’ was carried out according to the detailed plan,” and that the plan “accepted the suggestion of architect Kuo Mao-lin, who had lived in Japan, and incorporated a commercial center concept in addition to housing and a municipal center.”
  17. 44 South Village — Wikipedia § 44 South Village National Historic Monument Promotion Alliance — The cultural preservation section of the Wikipedia entry on 44 South Village records concrete organizations and timeline points, including “according to the investigation by the ‘44 South Village National Historic Monument Promotion Alliance,’” that “community residents and cultural figures launched a military dependents’ village cultural preservation movement and established the 44 South Village Cultural History Studio,” that “after inspection by the Department of Cultural Affairs historic monument review committee, it was formally listed as a ‘historic building,’” and that “finally, on October 25, 2003, it appeared with a new look as the Xinyi Assembly Hall and Military Dependents’ Village Cultural Park.”
  18. Good Cho’s Xinyi Store — Official Store Information — Good Cho’s official website page for its Xinyi store gives the address “No. 54, Songqin Street, Xinyi District, Taipei City (44 South Village)” and records that Good Cho’s Xinyi store was “the brand’s first store,” a composite space combining bagel baking, a curated shop, cultural-and-creative markets, and arts activities.
  19. Taipei 101 — Wikipedia § Construction History — The construction section of the Wikipedia entry on Taipei 101 records that it is “located on the former Xinyi Junior High School site,” that “Xinyi Junior High School relocated in 1999,” that it “was completed and opened on December 31, 2004,” and that it has “a total height of 508 meters including antenna and 101 floors above ground,” documenting the successive history of the Taipei 101 site from Xinyi Junior High School.
  20. Good Cho’s Xinyi Store Menu — Chouhuahua — A food blog’s detailed record of the Good Cho’s Xinyi store menu includes bagel burgers, dumplings, and dependents’ village-style dishes. While retaining bagels as its main axis, the menu occasionally offers limited items paying homage to military dependents’ village culture.
  21. Little Hyatt South Village Eatery — Chouhuahua — A food blog’s record of “Little Hyatt South Village Eatery” notes that it is located in the lanes near 44 South Village, serving affordable dependents’ village flavors such as fried noodles, braised dishes, and rolled flatbreads. The owner’s family came to Taiwan from Qingdao with the 44th Arsenal in 1949, making it “the dependents’ village flavor that is truly still alive” rather than a static museum display.
About this article This article was collaboratively written with AI assistance and community review.
44 South Village Xinyi District Taipei City Military Dependents' Village Combined Logistics 44th Arsenal Taikang Qingdao Shandong Xinyi Assembly Hall Good Cho's Taipei 101 Xinyi Planning District Military Dependents' Village Cultural Preservation Historic District Mainlander Historic Districts Series
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