The Culinary Fusion of New Residents in Taiwan

In the Ankang community of Muzha, Taipei, the 1980s were a major hub for Vietnamese overseas Chinese in Taiwan; back then, the road was still called "Vietnam Street." In recent decades, this community has also welcomed a wave of new resident women who married into Taiwanese families. Xin Shih-ping (辛詩萍) has lived in Taiwan for over two decades; her husband is an overseas Chinese from Vietnam who arrived during an earlier period of migration. Her noodle stall serves Vietnamese guotiao (rice noodles), which is a favorite breakfast among local Vietnamese residents ¹.

One community hosts two generations of Vietnamese immigrants: the overseas Chinese who fled Saigon around 1975, and the new resident women who came to Taiwan through transnational marriage starting in the late 1990s. In 2003, transnational marriages accounted for 31.86% of all marriages in Taiwan, nearly one in three couples ². They bring the cuisine of their homeland, which slowly evolves on Taiwanese stoves, blending with local ingredients and adapting to Taiwanese palates.

The Development Trajectory of New Resident Cuisine in Taiwan

1990–2000: The Beginning of Taking Root

In the late 1990s, transnational marriages in Taiwan increased rapidly. Marriage migrants from Southeast Asia were predominantly Vietnamese: as of May 2012, there were over 130,000 new migrant women from Southeast Asia, with Vietnamese nationals making up 66.29%, followed by Indonesian, Filipino, Thai, and Cambodian ². Initially, they mainly cooked their homeland cuisine for family at home, and these foreign flavors circulated only within small circles.

The cuisine of new residents during this period remained relatively pure in its original form. Vietnamese pho, Thai Tom Yam (spicy and sour soup), and Indonesian Rendang all strove to maintain the original tastes of their homelands. However, due to difficulties in sourcing ingredients, many new residents began learning to substitute local Taiwanese ingredients for spices and vegetables from their home countries.

2000–2010: The Budding of Commercialization

Entering the 21st century, as the number of new residents increased and Taiwan society became more accepting of multiculturalism, new resident cuisine began moving out of homes and into the commercial market.

The map of Southeast Asian flavors in Taiwan actually predates the arrival of many new residents. Zhongzhen Market in Longgang, Taoyuan, is famous for Yunnan-Burmese-Thai snacks like migans (dried rice cakes) and mixian (rice vermicelli). Its origins trace back to the Zhongzhen New Village built by military dependents from the Yunnan Anti-Communist National Salvation Army who retreated to Taiwan in 1954, with many villagers' families originating from Yunnan, Thailand, and Myanmar ³. This was a post-war civilian migration, separate from the marriage migration that began in the 1990s.

Stalls run by new residents and migrant workers were often located in areas where their compatriots gathered. On Yanping Road near the former Taoyuan Train Station, Vietnamese pho shops and Southeast Asian grocery stores overflowing with spices lined up side-by-side, catering mostly to Vietnamese migrant workers working in Taoyuan ⁴.

During this period, new resident cuisine began adjusting its spiciness, sourness, and sweetness to suit Taiwanese tastes.

2010–2020: Crossing the Threshold into the Mainstream

In the 2010s, interest in Southeast Asian culture grew among Taiwanese society, but it was not easy for small eateries run by new residents to capture the mainstream Taiwanese clientele. A 2020 study conducted by the Food and Beverage Management Department at Cheng-Hsi University for the National Immigration Agency pointed out that Southeast Asian cuisines generally have strong flavors that are difficult for the average Taiwanese person to accept, so the customers of these small eateries were mostly new residents and migrant workers; Vietnamese cuisine is lighter than other Southeast Asian countries' fare, and its acceptance in Taiwan is higher than Indonesian cuisine ⁵.

Another path was taken by "Wacheng" (瓦城): established in 1990 by Taiwanese national Xu Ching-yi (徐承義), it opened the first "Wacheng Thai Cuisine," representing a different type of "Thai food in Taiwan" compared to the home-style small eateries run by new residents ⁶.

At the same time, new resident cuisine also began showing trends toward refinement. Some new resident chefs started emphasizing ingredient quality and plating aesthetics, elevating traditional street snacks into refined restaurant fare.

2020–Present: Fusion Innovation and Cultural Identity

In recent years, Taiwanese new resident cuisine has developed a more diverse and innovative appearance. According to statistics from the delivery platform foodpanda, Southeast Asian cuisine sales on the platform exceeded NT$700 million in 2025, with Thai cuisine being the most popular; the top three hot dishes are Pad Krapow (Thai stir-fried pork), Vietnamese pho, and green curry, with nearly a thousand new resident stores on the platform ⁷. The second generation of new residents (the children of new residents) have also begun to participate in the inheritance and innovation of food culture, interpreting their parents' homeland cuisine in their own ways.

Fusion dishes such as "Taiwanese Vietnamese Pho," "Thai-style Braised Pork Rice," and "Indonesian-flavored Fried Chicken" are appearing; these innovations are no longer seen as a betrayal of tradition but are regarded as the natural result of cultural fusion.

Major Types and Characteristics of New Resident Cuisine

Vietnamese Cuisine: The Tropical Flavor of Freshness and Sweetness

Vietnamese cuisine is one of Taiwan's most widespread new resident cuisines. Its characteristics include fresh flavors, balanced sweet and sour tastes, and heavy use of fresh herbs.

Pho (Rice Noodles) is representative of Vietnamese cuisine. In Taiwan, Vietnamese pho has undergone significant localization:

Broth Adjustment: The originally light beef bone broth in Taiwan often includes more spices to make the flavor richer.
Localizing Side Dishes: Taiwanese vegetables that are easy to obtain, such as bean sprouts and chives, replace some of the original Vietnamese herbs.
Meat Choices: Pork options favored by Taiwanese people have been added, not limited to traditional beef.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls are also very popular in Taiwan. The Taiwanese version usually:

Increases the proportion of lettuce and cucumber.
Uses local shrimp and shredded pork from Taiwan.
Adjusts the dipping sauce to a milder sweet and sour flavor.

Thai Cuisine: The Spicy and Rich Taste of the Tropics

Thai cuisine is famous for its spiciness, and in its development in Taiwan, it has gradually adapted to Taiwanese taste preferences.

Tom Yam (Spicy and Sour Soup) is one of the most popular Thai dishes:

Sourness Adjustment: The amount of kaffir lime leaves is reduced, and lemon juice is increased to make the sourness milder.
Spiciness Control: Different levels of spiciness are offered to meet varying Taiwanese demands for heat.
Localizing Seafood: Local shrimp and squid from Taiwan are used for higher freshness.

Green Curry has also been innovatively modified in Taiwan:

Uses local eggplant and green beans from Taiwan.
The coconut milk concentration is adjusted to suit Taiwanese preferences.
It is served with Taiwanese rice, rather than traditional Thai jasmine rice.

Pad Krapow (Thai Stir-fried Pork) is a popular street food choice:

Uses tender domestic pork from Taiwan.
Holy basil replaces some of the Thai basil, better matching Taiwanese spice preferences.
Side dishes include Taiwanese pickled vegetables and braised eggs.

Indonesian Cuisine: The Island Flavor Rich in Spices

Indonesian cuisine is characterized by rich spices and complex flavors. In Taiwan, the development of Indonesian cuisine was relatively later but has gained attention in recent years.

Nasi Goreng (Fried Rice) is the easiest Indonesian dish for Taiwanese people to accept:

Uses long-grain rice from Taiwan, which better suits Taiwanese habits.
The seasoning leans toward sweet and savory with mild spiciness.
Local ingredients like Taiwanese sausage and braised eggs are added.

Rendang, after being localized in Taiwan:

The coconut milk concentration is adjusted so it is not overly heavy.
The amount of spices is reduced to suit Taiwanese tastes.
It is served with regular white rice from Taiwan, rather than traditional coconut rice.

Filipino Cuisine: The Island Flavor of Sweet and Sour Appetizers

The development of Filipino cuisine in Taiwan has been relatively niche, but it still possesses a unique charm.

Adobo (Stewed Meat) is the national dish of the Philippines:

Uses Taiwanese soy sauce and vinegar, resulting in a milder flavor.
Local vegetables favored by Taiwanese people, such as radishes and potatoes, are added.
It is served with regular white rice from Taiwan.

Localization Innovation in New Resident Cuisine

Ingredient Substitution

The first challenge faced by new resident chefs in Taiwan was ingredient sourcing. Many spices and vegetables from their homelands were difficult or expensive to buy in Taiwan. Therefore, they demonstrated incredible creativity, creating new flavor combinations using local Taiwanese ingredients.

Spice Substitution:

Taiwanese chili powder is used to replace some unique Southeast Asian spices.
Taiwanese chilies are used to replace Thai bird's eye chilies.

Vegetable Substitution:

Taiwanese chives are used to replace Thai basil flowers.
Taiwanese eggplant is used to replace Thai round eggplants.

Meat Adjustments:

High-quality pork and chicken from Taiwan are used.
The selection of meat cuts is adjusted according to Taiwanese preferences.

Taiwanese Flavor Adjustment

To adapt to the tastes of Taiwanese people, new resident cuisine has been adjusted in terms of spiciness, sourness, and sweetness.

Spiciness Regulation:
Taiwanese people generally do not eat as much spice as Southeast Asians, so many new resident dishes have reduced their heat or offer different levels of spiciness.

Sweetness Increase:
Since Taiwanese people prefer sweet flavors, many new resident dishes have increased the level of sweetness. Thai stir-fried noodles often include more sugar; Vietnamese pho broths also have a slight sweetness.

Saltiness Adjustment:
The use of strong seafood-flavored seasonings like fish sauce is reduced, and the proportion of soy sauce familiar to Taiwanese people is increased.

Integration of Cooking Techniques

New resident chefs have also integrated Taiwanese cooking techniques into their cuisine.

Stir-frying Technique:
Many Southeast Asian dishes originally required long simmering times, but in Taiwan's fast-paced life, new resident chefs learned to use the Taiwanese stir-fry method to shorten cooking time.

Braising Techniques:
Taiwanese braising techniques have been applied to Southeast Asian cuisine, resulting in innovative dishes like "Thai-style Braised Pork" and "Vietnamese-style Braised Eggs."

Frying Improvements:
They learned frying techniques from Taiwanese night markets to make Southeast Asian fried foods crispier.

Innovative Cuisine through Cross-Cultural Fusion

Taiwan-Vietnam Fusion Dishes

Vietnamese-style Braised Pork Rice:
This combines the classic Taiwanese braised pork rice with Vietnamese spices, using herbs like lemongrass and mint to create a refreshing version of the dish.

Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup:
Taiwanese beef noodles are cooked using the clear broth technique of Vietnamese pho, resulting in a lighter soup base, enhanced with Vietnamese cilantro and bean sprouts.

Taiwan-Thai Fusion Dishes

Thai Fried Chicken:
This combines Taiwanese night market fried chicken with Thai seasonings, marinated using Thai spices like lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves.

Thai Buns (Gua Bao):
The filling of traditional Taiwanese gua bao is replaced with Thai roasted pork, served with a side of Thai papaya salad.

Taiwan-Indonesian Fusion Dishes

Spiced Stinky Tofu:
Taiwanese stinky tofu is seasoned with Indonesian spices to create unique "spiced stinky tofu."

Curry Fried Chicken:
Taiwanese fried chicken drizzled with an Indonesian-flavored curry sauce—a creative dish combining two cultures.

Socio-Cultural Impact of New Resident Cuisine

Changing Taiwanese Dietary Habits

The popularization of new resident cuisine has gradually changed the dietary habits and taste preferences of Taiwanese people.

Increased Acceptance of Spices:
More and more Taiwanese people have begun to accept and enjoy Southeast Asian spices such as herbs, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves.

Popularity of Spicy and Sour Flavors:
Spicy and sour dishes like Thai Tom Yam and Vietnamese spicy and sour noodles have become favorites among many Taiwanese people.

Health Consciousness in Diet:
Southeast Asian cuisine's heavy use of fresh vegetables and herbs has promoted awareness among Taiwanese people regarding healthy eating.

Promoting Multicultural Understanding

New resident cuisine has become an important window for Taiwanese society to understand Southeast Asian culture.

Cultural Exchange:
By tasting new resident dishes, Taiwanese people have gained a deeper understanding and recognition of Southeast Asian culture.

Reducing Prejudices:
The charm of food helps eliminate some cultural prejudices and promotes understanding and integration among different ethnic groups.

Language Learning:
Many Taiwanese people have started learning simple Vietnamese or Thai because they love the cuisine.

Economic Impact

The development of the new resident cuisine industry has also brought significant economic benefits.

Employment Opportunities:
New resident restaurants provide important employment opportunities for new residents. Ms. Song (宋氏梅) worked in Taiwan after graduating from high school in Hanoi, and she settled there after meeting her husband. She sold Hanoi rice noodles at an old eatery in Liuying, Tainan; initially, she struggled with gas leaks and refrigerator breakdowns, and no matter how good the taste was, she couldn't retain customers. In 2019, she was selected for the 5th "Dream Building Project for New Residents and Their Children" by the National Immigration Agency, which provided subsidies to improve the store's facilities and set up a culinary classroom, and she also received an appointment as a Vietnamese language teacher at a private middle school in Tainan ⁸.

Tourism Benefits:
Unique new resident cuisine has become a new highlight for tourism in Taiwan, attracting international visitors to taste.

Import and Export Trade:
The demand for new resident cuisine has driven the import trade of Southeast Asian ingredients and spices.

Cultural Inheritance and Innovation by New Resident Second Generation

The Complexity of Cultural Identity

The second generation of new residents (the children of new residents) faces complex choices regarding cultural identity. They are Taiwanese, yet they also inherit the cultural lineage of their mothers' homelands. In food culture, this complex identity has spurred many innovations.

Language Advantage:
Second-generation new residents often speak fluent Chinese and their mother tongue, giving them a unique communication advantage when running new resident restaurants.

Innovative Mindset:
The second generation, who grew up in multicultural environments, often possess a more open mindset regarding culinary innovation.

Promotion of Cultural Education

Many second-generation new residents have begun to take on the responsibility of cultural education, promoting Southeast Asian food culture through cooking classes and cultural activities.

Culinary Teaching:
Southeast Asian cuisine courses are offered, teaching Taiwanese people how to make authentic Southeast Asian dishes.

Cultural Activities:
They participate in multicultural events at schools and communities, promoting their mothers' homelands' cultures through food exhibitions.

Challenges and Future Prospects

Major Challenges

Ingredient Supply Chain:
Many characteristic Southeast Asian ingredients still rely on imports, leading to high costs that affect the competitiveness of the cuisine.

Skill Inheritance:
Some traditional production techniques face the risk of being lost and require systematic inheritance mechanisms.

Market Acceptance:
Although new resident cuisine is widely popular, acceptance levels still need improvement in certain regions or age groups.

Commercialization Pressure:
Over-altering traditional flavors to meet market demands may cause them to lose their original cultural characteristics.

Development Opportunities

Policy Support:
Government policies supporting multiculturalism provide a favorable environment for the development of new resident cuisine.

High Acceptance by Younger Generations:
Younger generations have a higher acceptance rate for foreign cuisines, providing a vast market space for new resident cuisine.

Integration with Tourism Industry:
New resident cuisine can be deeply integrated with Taiwan's tourism industry to become an important element of cultural tourism.

International Trends:
With the development of globalization, Taiwan has the potential to export its fusion of Southeast Asian cuisine to other countries as a base for regional flavors.

Future Outlook

Professional Development:
More professional new resident restaurants will emerge in the future, offering more refined services and more authentic tastes.

Chain Operation:
Some successful new resident restaurant brands will develop into chain operations, expanding their market influence.

Local Ingredient Sourcing:
As demand increases, some Southeast Asian vegetables and spices will be grown locally in Taiwan, reducing costs.

Cultural Education Function:
New resident restaurants will take on more cultural educational functions, becoming important places for multicultural exchange.

Innovative Fusion Cuisine:
The second generation of new residents will create more Southeast Asian fusion dishes with Taiwanese characteristics, forming a unique "Taiwanese-flavored Southeast Asian cuisine."

Conclusion: The Cultural Fusion of Taste

The development of new resident cuisine in Taiwan is a moving story of cultural fusion and innovation. It tells us that cultural inheritance is not static replication but creative adaptation within a new environment.

When Vietnamese sisters wrap sweeter spring rolls with Taiwanese cabbage, when Thai daughters make milder Pad Krapow using Taiwanese pork, and when Indonesian sisters season curry with Taiwanese chilies for better local palates, they are not betraying their homeland's traditions; they are creating a new tradition belonging to Taiwan.

This fusion is two-way. As Taiwanese people accept new resident cuisine, they are also changing their own food culture. Today's Taiwanese cuisine is no longer the cuisine of 20 years ago. It has become more diverse, richer, and more internationalized.

The development of new resident cuisine in Taiwan demonstrates the inclusiveness and creativity of Taiwanese society. It proves that the exchange between different cultures is not a zero-sum game but can create beautiful results where "1+1>2."

In the future, with the growth of more second-generation new residents and the appearance of more innovative dishes, Taiwanese new resident cuisine culture will continue to develop and evolve. It will become an important symbol of Taiwan's multiculturalism and add more color and possibilities to its food culture.

In this globalized era, the story of new resident cuisine in Taiwan also provides a successful model of cultural fusion for other countries. It teaches us that an open mind and a spirit of innovation can allow different cultures to bloom even more beautifully on new soil.

References

Image Sources

Hero: Vietnamese Pho, Photo by Tayzar44, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.

Ankang Community in Muzha, formerly a major hub for Vietnamese overseas Chinese, hosts two generations of Vietnamese immigrants — CCTV News Network, July 8, 2025; Ankang community's Vietnamese communities in the 1980s, "Vietnam Street," and Xin Shih-ping's noodle stall.↩
Marriage Migration Research Report compiled by the National Immigration Agency (Chapter 1 Introduction) — Citing NIS statistics: marriage migration proportion was 31.86% in 2003; over 130,000 new migrant women from Southeast Asia as of the end of May 2012, with Vietnamese nationals at 66.29%.↩²
Zhongzhen New Village — Wikipedia; built for military dependents who retreated to Taiwan in 1954, with many families from Yunnan, Thailand, and Myanmar; demolished in early 2005.↩
Little Mi's Delicious Adventure Squad: I met Southeast Asian food on Yanping Road in Taoyuan — New Headline Special Project; Vietnamese pho shops and Southeast Asian stores on Yanping Road in Taoyuan, catering mainly to Vietnamese migrant workers.↩
A Study on Cross-Cultural Diet and Micro-Entrepreneurship by New Residents — Research report sponsored by the New Resident Development Fund (Principal Investigator Wang Bao-xi), Department of Food and Beverage Management at Cheng-Hsi University, December 2020.↩
Wacheng Thai Tong Group — Wikipedia; founded in 1990 by Xu Ching-yi et al., opening the first Wacheng Thai Cuisine that same year.↩
foodpanda reveals Taiwan's latest dining map: Southeast Asian cuisine sales exceed NT$700 million annually, Pad Krapow, Pho, and Green Curry take the top spots — Foodly foodNEXT; foodpanda statistics for 2025 and the number of new resident stores on the platform.↩
Sending Parental Love to Homeland Cuisine: NIS Dream Building Project Helps New Residents Fulfill Dreams — Taiwan English News, March 19, 2019; Ms. Song's Hanoi rice noodle stall in Liuying, Tainan.↩