Taiwan's Old Streets: Culture and Commercial Districts

From Qing Dynasty port prosperity to Japanese colonial Baroque mansions, Taiwan's old streets are a commoner's history written in bricks and tiles.

30-Second Overview: Taiwan has over 30 well-preserved historic old streets, ranging from Dihua Street (opened in 1851) and Lukang (a major center of the "One Prefecture, Two Deer, Three Wanhua" era during the Qing Dynasty), Jiufen (which flourished due to gold mining and was reborn through film), to Sanxia Old Street, known as the "Most Beautiful Baroque Street Houses in Taiwan." Each old street is a solidified moment in time, recording the economic pulse, architectural aesthetics, and daily life of different eras.

How Old Streets Came to Be

The formation of Taiwan's old streets is almost inseparable from three elements: waterways, commodities, and markets.

In Qing Dynasty Taiwan, the economy was primarily based on agricultural trade, making port towns naturally the first to flourish. The saying "One Prefecture, Two Deer, Three Wanhua" describes the ranking of the three major commercial hubs during the Qing administration: Tainan Prefecture, Lukang, and Wanhua (Monga), all of which were ports. Merchant ships brought crowds, crowds brought shops, and these shops extended inland from the docks, thus forming the earliest "streets."

During the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), the Governor-General's Office implemented "City Improvement," widening and straightening originally curved and narrow streets, and enforcing regulations on building facades, covered walkways, and sanitation facilities. This is why many houses in Taiwan's old streets, though built by Minnan people, feature Baroque-style capital columns—this was European street aesthetics introduced by the Japanese colonial government, interpreted by local craftsmen in their own way, ultimately resulting in a unique "Taiwanese Baroque."

Ten Old Streets You Should Know

Dihua Street (Dadaocheng, Taipei): The Starting Point of Taipei's Commerce

The earliest shops on Dihua Street appeared in 1851 (the first year of the Xianfeng reign), more than thirty years before Taipei was established. In 1853, people from Quanzhou and Tong'an in Monga were defeated in a conflict ("Tingxia Jiaopin") and fled to Dadaocheng, where they settled and built shops, forming "Zhongjie."

During the Japanese colonial period, Dihua Street specialized in north-south dry goods and tea; later, rice, cloth, and Chinese medicine also joined. From humble Minnan-style shops to elaborate Baroque facades, the architecture of the entire street records Taipei's century of commercial transformation.

Today's Features:

  • New Year Goods Street (Nianhuo Dajie): The busiest traditional market in Taipei every Lunar New Year.
  • Yongle Market: Taiwan's largest textile wholesale center.
  • Hsianghai City God Temple: Established in 1859, famous for its Yuelao (matchmaker), attracting many international tourists.
  • In recent years, the area has attracted many creative and cultural brands and coffee shops, regenerating the district as a model for urban renewal in Taipei.

Sources: Ministry of Transportation and Tourism — Dihua Street; Wikipedia — Dihua Street


Lukang Old Street (Changhua): Taiwan's Second Largest City during the Qing Dynasty

In 1784 (the 49th year of the Qianlong reign), Lukang was officially opened as a port trading with Quanzhou, Jianjiang. The period from the 50th year of Qianlong to the 30th year of Daoguang (approx. 1785–1850) was the commercial zenith of Lukang; the population once reached tens of thousands, making it Taiwan's second-largest city.

However, port silting caused Lukang to decline as a shipping center—yet this also allowed it to preserve a large number of historic buildings that were not destroyed by modern development.

Today's Features:

Yaolin Street and Putou Street host the best-preserved Qing Dynasty Minnan architectural clusters in Lukang. The red brick alleys and gray tile storage jars are popular spots for photos. Molaixi (the narrowest part) is only about 70 cm wide, dating back nearly 200 years; its original name may have been a homophone of "Menglin Alley" 1.

  • Lukang Longshan Temple: A National Historic Site, built in 1786, renowned as one of Taiwan's most beautiful Qing Dynasty temples.
  • Lukang Mazu Temple: Dedicated to Mazu from Meizhou, it is one of the two major Mazu temples in Taiwan alongside Beigang Chaotian Temple.
  • Traditional Crafts: Handicrafts such as wood carving, tinware, candy, and pastries are still active in the old street.

Sources: Changhua Tourism Information Network — Lukang Old Street; Records from Lohanmen Wen Shi


Jiufen Old Street (Ruifang, New Taipei): The Legend of a Mountain Town from Gold Mines to Film

The story of Jiufen begins in 1890. When Liu Mingchuan built the railway connecting Keelung and Taipei, construction workers discovered alluvial gold in the Badu River section of the Keelung River. Gold prospectors flowed upstream, and in 1893, a small gold vein was found in the Jiufen mountains; in 1894, the Jin Gua Shi mountain body discovered gold—and the quiet Keelung Mountain became bustling with human activity.

During the peak of gold mining under Japanese rule, Jiufen's population exploded, and the slopes were covered with densely packed houses, forming a unique "mountain town" street along steep stone stairs. In the 1960s, when the mines ran dry, Jiufen rapidly declined and was almost forgotten by the world.

The turning point came in 1989: Hou Hsiao-hsien's A City of Sadness filmed in Jiufen. This film won the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival, bringing Jiufen back into public view. Afterward, some people associated Jiufen with Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away (though Miyazaki himself denied it), and Jiufen became a must-visit destination for international tourists.

Today's Features:

Shuqi Road stairs are the most classic scenery in Jiufen, with red lanterns hanging on both sides of the teahouses. A Mei Teahouse is one of the most frequently seen buildings in tourist photos 2.

  • Jishan Street: The main commercial street, known for snacks (taro balls, caozai guo, fish balls) and souvenirs.
  • Shengping Theater: An old theater built in 1934, which has been restored as an exhibition space.
  • Tourism Challenges: Crowds and traffic congestion on holidays are long-standing issues.

Sources: Wikipedia — Jiufen; Wikipedia — A City of Sadness; Taiwan Geological Science Digital Collection — Jin Gua Shi Jiufen Gold Mining History


Sanxia Old Street (Sanxia, New Taipei): The Most Beautiful Baroque Street Houses in Taiwan

The story of Sanxia Old Street has a dramatic beginning: in 1895, the residents of Sanxia were burned by Japanese forces during resistance against Japan; the entire street was reduced to ashes. It was subsequently rebuilt by the local residents. In 1916 (the 5th year of Taisho), the Japanese government led "City Improvement," and residents self-funded the transformation of traditional houses into European-style facades—using Greek columns, Roman arches, and Baroque decorations, integrating elements from Western mansions, Japanese crests, and Han Chinese cultural patterns.

This section of Minquan Street, spanning about 200 meters, with continuous red brick arcades, is one of the most complete clusters of Japanese colonial Baroque street houses in Taiwan. In 2007, "Sanxia Old Street Renovation" won the Silver Medal for Best Public and Special Building at FIABCI (the Global Architectural Gold Award) held in Barcelona.

Today's Features:

The continuous covered walkways are the most recognizable feature of Sanxia Old Street. Qingshui Ancestor Temple was reconstructed by Taiwanese veteran painter Li Mei-shu (from 1947 until his death in 1983), and is famous for its exquisite stone carving and wood carving, earning it the title "Temple of Eastern Art" 3.

  • Indigo Dyeing Craft: Sanxia was once North Taiwan's largest textile dyeing center; DIY experience courses are available now.
  • Jinniu Corner Bread: A signature souvenir of Sanxia Old Street.

Sources: Ministry of Transportation and Tourism — Sanxia Old Street; Wikipedia — Sanxia Old Street; Sanxia District Office, New Taipei City


Daxi Old Street (Taoyuan): Baroque Façades and the Worship of Guan Sheng Di Jun

The architectural cluster of Daxi Old Street began in 1912 (the 1st year of Taisho), when the Taiwan Governor-General's Office implemented the "Daqi-Kan Street City Improvement Plan," widening roads, and residents subsequently adding magnificent Baroque façade decorations to their newly built houses.

During the Qing Dynasty, Daxi was a hub for camphor, tea, timber, and coal due to its transport via the Dahan River. Merchants from Britain, Germany, and Spain all set up shops here; foreign trading companies and teahouses lined the streets. Today, commerce has shifted to tourism, but the façade decorations with stone carvings and mud sculptures remain intact.

Today's Features:

Heping Road, Zhongshan Road, and Central Road are sections where Daxi historic houses are relatively well-preserved. Daxi tofu is the most representative specialty of the old street, with several century-old shops 4.

  • Daxi Daxi Festival (Da Xi Da Xi): The grandest folk celebration in Daxi, held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, celebrating Guan Sheng Di Jun. It is listed as one of Taiwan's Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Ministry of Culture.
  • Daxi Woodcraft Ecosystem Museum: Conceptualizes the entire street as a museum, linking old buildings with local industries.

Sources: Wikipedia — Daxi Old Street; Taoyuan Tourism Guide Network


Tamsui Old Street (Tamsui, New Taipei): Four Centuries of Scenery at the River Mouth

The history of Tamsui dates back to 1628 when the Spanish built "St. Dominic's Town." In 1642, the Dutch expelled the Spanish and rebuilt on the old site—this is where Hongmao City (named because the Minnan people called the Dutch "Red-haired") stands today. In 1867, the British leased Hongmao City and added a British consulate to the east side.

Tamsui Old Street generally refers to the area around Zhongzheng Road (from the ferry pier to the intersection with Zhongshan Road), as well as the rebuilt streets on the hillside. The Rebuilt Streets are Tamsui's earliest developed roads, still featuring many wooden and brick old houses on both sides.

Today's Features:

A-Gei is a representative snack of Tamsui, made by stuffing fried tofu with stir-fried vermicelli and fish paste, which was steamed; the name comes from the Japanese word aburaage. The sunset over the Tamsui River is one of the most popular scenic spots in the Taipei metropolitan area 5.

  • Black Eggs, Fish Balls, Fish Crisps: Classic old street snacks.
  • Hongmao City + Xiao Bai Palace + Hubei Guntai: These three historical sites are linked, recording four centuries of Tamsui's international trade history.
  • Convenient transportation: It is the terminus of the MRT Tamsui Line.

Sources: Ministry of Transportation and Tourism — Tamsui Hongmao City; New Taipei Tourism Network — Tamsui Old Street; Tamsui Museum


Anping Old Street (Tainan): Taiwan's Oldest Street

Anping Old Street (Yanping Old Street) is the first street established by the Dutch in Anping, dating back to the 1620s during Dutch rule. The early streets were only wide enough for people and carts; the streetscape was narrow. The buildings here mix Dutch, Qing, and Japanese styles, making it one of Taiwan's most historically layered districts.

Today's Features:

Anping Old Fort (the ruins of Holland East India Company Fort) was built by the Dutch in 1624; the Jian Shi culture is a unique protective decoration specific to Anping, rumored to originate from customs during the Zheng clan's military occupation, and has become an iconic cultural symbol of Anping 6.

  • Alley Exploration: Jasmine Alley, Yanzhi Alley, etc., feature complex small alleys that retain the appearance of old settlements.
  • Snacks: Shrimp cakes, oyster omelets, tofu pudding, and Anping shrimp rolls are local classics.
  • Deji Trading Company: A trading post established by British merchants in 1867, which is now a historical exhibition space.

Sources: Tainan Tourism Network — Anping Old Street


Beipu Old Street (Hsinchu): The Old Street with the Highest Density of Historic Sites in Taiwan

Beipu Old Street is only 200 meters long, yet it has 7 historic sites, making it the most densely preserved area in Taiwan. This was the busiest commercial center of Beipu during the Qing Dynasty and an important witness to Hakka colonization history.

The Jin Guangfu Ancestral Hall (a National Historic Site from 1835) records the history of joint cultivation by Minnan and Hakka peoples, while Tianshui Hall is the ancestral home of the Jiang clan; these two were combined into a National Historic Site.

  • Jiang Axin Mansion: A masterpiece blending Chinese and Western styles built by tea tycoons during the Japanese colonial period.
  • Citian Temple: A County Historic Site and the spiritual center of the old street.
  • Hakka Cuisine: Authentic Leicha (tea), stone persimmon cakes, and Hakka nian tiao.
  • The entire street lacks chain stores, maintaining a simple Hakka village atmosphere.

Sources: Ministry of Transportation and Tourism — Beipu Old Street


Qishan Old Street (Kaohsiung): Memories of the Banana Kingdom

Qishan was formerly known as "Qiwei" and has been an important agricultural area in Southern Taiwan since the Qing Dynasty. During the Japanese colonial period, with the rise of sugar and banana industries, Qishan became a major economic center on the Kaohsiung mountain line. In the 1950s–1960s, large quantities of bananas from Qishan were exported to Japan, earning Taiwan significant foreign exchange—the fame of the "Banana Kingdom" began here.

Today's Features:

Qishan Old Street retains a rare streetscape where Baroque red brick buildings coexist with sandstone archways; Qishan Station (Sugar and Rail Story Museum) is the railway station for the Qiwei line during the Japanese colonial period, restored as a cultural space 7.

  • Qishan Wude Hall: A martial arts training ground from the Japanese colonial period.
  • Banana Cake, Banana Rolls: Local specialties known as Taiwan's "Tokyo Bananas."
  • In recent years, it has surpassed Jiufen to become one of the old streets with the most visitors according to tourism statistics.

Sources: Kaohsiung Tourism Network — Qishan Old Street


Neiwang Old Street (Hengshan, Hsinchu): The Nostalgic Charm of a Hakka Mountain Town

Neiwang is located in Hengshan Township, Hsinchu County, and its residents are mainly Hakka people. The settlement developed because the railway station was established there for forestry and coal transport during the Japanese colonial period.

Today's Features:

Neiwang Station is the terminus of the Neiwang Line; the wooden station itself is a nostalgic attraction. The Neiwang Theater next to it was built in the 1950s and now serves as a restaurant and exhibition space 8.

  • Neiwang Suspension Bridge: A scenic path crossing the Yuluo Creek.
  • Liu Xingqin Comics: Characters like "Auntie" and "Ah San Ge," created by local cartoonist Liu Xingqin, are scattered throughout the streets.
  • Hakka Snacks: Wild ginger meat rice dumplings, purple yam vegetable wraps, Hakka nian tiao, and Leicha slush.

Sources: TravelKing — Neiwang Old Street

The Architectural Code of Taiwan's Old Streets

Walking into a Taiwanese old street means that the architecture itself is a history textbook. The architectural styles of Taiwan's old streets are mainly divided into three types: Qing Dynasty Minnan-style houses, Japanese colonial Taiwanese Baroque, and the covered walkway (tingzai jiao) design that runs through both.

These three styles often appear simultaneously on one street, reflecting the layering of architectural concepts from different eras. Understanding these architectural vocabularies is the first step to understanding Taiwan's old streets 8.

Minnan-style Houses (Qing Dynasty): Narrow in front and deep (zhugao cuo), with shops on the ground floor and residences on the second floor. They feature red brick load-bearing walls, hard mountain-style swallowtail ridge roofs, and facades that may have stone carvings or Jiaozi pottery decorations.

Taiwanese Baroque (Japanese Colonial): A product of the "City Improvement" implemented by the Japanese government. It retained the deep layout of the traditional houses but changed the façade to mimic European styles—symmetrical composition, classical columns, arches, and floral patterns. Materials evolved from traditional brick and wood to reinforced concrete and washed stone. Every facade served as a business card for the owner; the more elaborate, the better the business. The Baroque streets in Sanxia, Daxi, and Qishan are the most representative examples.

Covered Walkways (Tingzai Jiao): This is the most practical architectural element of Taiwan's old streets. It is a public corridor formed by the setback of the ground floor front, providing shade and rain protection, and serving as an extension of commercial activity. This design accommodates the subtropical climate while creating a unique sense of street space in Taiwan.

The Role of Traditional Craftsmen: The intricate decorations of Taiwanese Baroque are built upon the techniques accumulated by generations of craftsmen. Mud sculptors handle the floral and bird reliefs on facades; washed stone artisans polish surfaces to mimic stone texture; and painters use mineral pigments to depict folk stories. These skills are partially maintained under the certification system for "Traditional Arts Preservation Masters" managed by the Ministry of Culture, but the gap in transmission is a common problem—when an old building is damaged, it is often difficult to find craftsmen who know the original techniques to repair it. The façade renovation project initiated in Sanxia Old Street in 2004 specifically recruited master artisans familiar with Japanese colonial washed stone techniques; subsequent renovations have struggled to find the same skilled teams.

Architectural details can also date the construction of an old street: washed stone walls are common from the 1920s–30s, while Qing-era to pre-1910s bricklaying is prevalent, and RC concrete frames became widespread after the 1930s. The family crests and industry symbols on facades—scissors representing textiles, abacus representing money lenders—are visual entry points for understanding the commercial history of the old street.

The Dilemma of Preservation

The biggest challenge facing Taiwan's old streets is commercial homogenization, rather than merely architectural preservation.

When an old street becomes a tourist attraction, rents rise, and original local shops are replaced by chain brands or monotonous "old street snacks." You will notice that the things sold from north to south become increasingly similar—sausages, grilled squid, soda balls. The old street has turned into a night market with historic building exteriors.

A relatively successful case is Dihua Street: through strategies of urban renewal and creative industry entry, it retained its traditional commerce of wholesale dry goods while introducing independent brands, design studios, and coffee shops, forming an ecological district where new and old coexist. Lukang maintains its cultural identity through the inheritance of traditional crafts (wood carving, tinware).

Another level of challenge is tourist carrying capacity. The crowds in Jiufen on holidays have seriously affected the quality of life for local residents and the visitor experience; traffic congestion remains an unsolved problem. The New Taipei City government has repeatedly studied traffic control measures, including restricting private cars on weekends and promoting shuttle buses, but these efforts have had limited success due to protests from businesses and implementation difficulties.

Government Preservation Mechanisms: The Ministry of Culture promotes old street revitalization through the "Historic District Preservation and Regeneration Project." Measures include subsidies for building exterior repairs (up to 60% of repair costs), facade regulation control, subsidies for clearing covered walkways, and certification/inheritance support for traditional craftsmen. Tainan City manages Anping Old Fort as a "Historical Appearance Zone," making it one of the more complete local preservation systems.

New Ideas with Design Intervention: The model of "design entering historic districts" has gained attention in recent years. Shennong Street in Tainan is not a major old street, but through the entry of artists and night lighting projects, it has formed a creative community that attracts independent tourists, avoiding the homogenization pressure of low-cost competition. The concept of the Daxi Woodcraft Ecosystem Museum—"the entire district is a museum"—allows architectural preservation to coexist with residents' daily lives, serving as an example that balances culture and living quality. How to achieve balance between the tourism economy and cultural preservation is the challenge every old street faces. Scholars point out that successful old street preservation is not about "freezing time," but about keeping the district inhabited and lived in—because true historical feeling comes from accumulated daily life across generations, not museum-style reconstructions.

Further Reading

References

  1. Changhua Tourism Information Network — Lukang Old Street — Information on Lukang Minnan architecture, Longshan Temple, Mazu Temple, and traditional crafts.↩
  2. Wikipedia — Jiufen — History of Jiufen gold mining, filming location for A City of Sadness, and current tourism status.↩
  3. Wikipedia — Sanxia Old Street — Restoration history of the Sanxia Baroque cluster and materials related to Li Mei-shu's reconstruction of the Ancestral Temple.↩
  4. Wikipedia — Daxi Old Street — Introduction to the Daxi Baroque facade cluster and the Da Xi Festival.↩
  5. New Taipei Tourism Network — Tamsui Old Street — Introduction to Tamsui Hongmao City, Zhongzheng Road old street, and Rebuilt Street scenery.↩
  6. Tainan Tourism Network — Anping Old Street — Explanation of Anping Old Fort, Jian Shi culture, and Yanping Old Street history.↩
  7. Kaohsiung Tourism Network — Qishan Old Street — History of the Qishan Banana Kingdom, Baroque street houses, and the Sugar and Rail Story Museum.↩
  8. Ministry of Transportation and Tourism — Taiwan Old Street Attractions — Comprehensive guide to old street tourism in Taiwan, including maps and route planning.↩2
About this article This article was collaboratively written with AI assistance and community review.
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Old Streets Historic Districts Cultural Preservation Tourism Architecture
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