Taiwan

30-Second Overview:
Today, Taiwanese people travel abroad as routinely as eating a meal at home. But before 1979, traveling abroad for pleasure was an illegal act of "wasting foreign exchange." From Lin Xiantang's round-the-world journey to the millions who travel abroad each year today, Taiwan's passport went from requiring "Police Headquarters approval" to being "worldwide access" in less than 50 years. This article traces Taiwan's cross-border history from the Austronesian dispersal origin point to the modern era, witnessing how this island journeyed from "house arrest" to "revenge travel" on a fantastical voyage.

Taiwan's Roots of Movement: The Great Voyage of the Austronesians

Before recorded history, Taiwan was already a key waypoint in humanity's great epic of movement. Approximately 5,000 to 6,000 years ago, the Austronesian peoples set out from Taiwan, spreading south and east to the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, New Zealand, and as far as Easter Island and Madagascar. This was an epic "going abroad" spanning tens of thousands of kilometers, carried out through masterful seafaring technology and knowledge of the stars, spreading language, culture, and agricultural techniques across the vast islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans. ^{1 2} Taiwan, as the "homeland" of the Austronesian peoples, witnessed humanity's earliest cross-border movement and cultural exchange. This history laid a deep foundation for the island's later ethnic diversity and complex patterns of movement.

The Age of Exploration and Qing Rule: Shackles of Movement and Maritime Bans

During the 17th-century Age of Exploration, Taiwan was a key entrepôt in East Asian trade. The arrival of the Dutch and the Spanish opened the prelude to Taiwan's connection with the world. Most Han Chinese immigrants at the time were hired laborers or merchants, and their movement was primarily constrained by the colonial powers' trading interests. ³ During the Dutch period, Taiwan became the core of the trade chain linking Japan, China, and Batavia. Han settlers hunted sambar deer, trading deerskins and sugar for foreign goods — Taiwan's earliest form of "globalized" movement. ^{4 5}

By the Kingdom of Tungning period, Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga) imposed strict maritime bans to resist the Qing court, placing Taiwan under military lockdown. ⁶ In the early Qing period, the Qing court issued the "Cross-Strait Prohibition," restricting people from the mainland from coming in and Taiwanese from going out, forming the historical roots of an "isolated island" mentality. ⁷ It was not until the mid-19th century, when treaty ports opened for trade, that Taiwanese had the opportunity to go to Southeast Asia as "contract laborers" (commonly known as "piglets" / coolies). That was a cross-border tragedy filled with blood and tears — many who signed indenture contracts never returned. ^{8 9}

Japanese Colonial Period: "Civilization" and "Grand Tours" Under the Travel Pass System

After Japan took control of Taiwan in 1895, Taiwanese became "new subjects" of Japan. To travel to places outside the Japanese home islands (such as China or Southeast Asia), one had to apply for a "ryoken" (travel pass / passport). ¹⁰

2.1 Discriminatory Treatment and Resistance Under the Travel Pass System

The travel pass system of that era showed clear discrimination between Japanese and Taiwanese. Taiwanese traveling to China had to apply for a "toka ryoken" (China travel pass), which was subject to extremely strict review, with approval rates influenced by political stance. ¹¹ This management was not only for public order but also a means for the colonizers to monitor the "civilization" of the Taiwanese through administrative means. ¹²

2.2 The Grand Tours of the Gentry and the Enlightenment of Ideas

Despite the restrictions, the gentry of the time inaugurated a culture of "grand tours." In 1927, Lin Xiantang of the Wufeng Lin family embarked on a year-long round-the-world journey with his son, traveling across Europe, America, and Asia. Lin serialized his observations in the Taiwan Minbao (Taiwan People's News), allowing Taiwanese to see the world for the first time through the eyes of a compatriot. ^{13 14} The overseas experiences of political figures such as Cai Peihuo and Jiang Weishui also became nourishment for later social movements in Taiwan, bringing Western democratic thought back to the island. ¹⁵

📝 Curator's Note: The "travel pass" of that era was more than a permit — it was a mirror reflecting class and struggle under the colonial system. Lin Xiantang's round-the-world journey was essentially an early attempt at "citizen diplomacy."

The Martial Law Period: The Dream of Going Abroad Under the Watch of the "Police Headquarters"

After World War II and the relocation of the Nationalist government to Taiwan, the island entered 30 years of martial law. At that time, going abroad was seen as "wasting foreign exchange" and posed national security concerns.

• Who could go abroad? Only those traveling for study, business, official duty, family visits, or funerals. ¹⁶
• The role of the Police Headquarters: The decision-making authority did not lie with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs but with the "Taiwan Provincial Garrison Command" (警總, or "Police Headquarters"). The Garrison Command not only reviewed applications but also conducted ideological investigations, and some people were even questioned upon their return. ^{17 18}
• Exceptional case: At the 1970 Japan World Exposition in Osaka, some citizens were able to travel under the guise of business to visit the Republic of China Pavilion designed by I.M. Pei. This was regarded at the time as an important mission to promote national prestige. ¹⁹

The procedures for going abroad at that time were extremely cumbersome. Many people, in order to travel, would use travel agencies to fabricate business invitation letters, which also gave rise to an early industry chain of proxy services. ^{20 21}

The "Political Shackles" of the Martial Law Period: The Blacklist and Overseas Dissidents

Beyond the Garrison Command's exit screening of people within Taiwan, the government also imposed strict political controls on Taiwanese living abroad, creating what was known as the "blacklist." Any overseas Taiwanese identified by the government as advocating sympathizing with the left, participating in the Baodiao (Diaoyu Islands) movement, or simply whose words and deeds were deemed "dissident" by intelligence agencies would be placed on the blacklist. Once listed, they could not obtain or renew a passport and were barred from entering Taiwan — effectively exiled with no way to return home. ^{22 23} Many overseas students or expatriates were blacklisted for participating in democratic movements abroad or publishing criticism of the government, and were unable to return home to visit family for decades — not even able to attend their parents' funerals. This political control made "going abroad" a one-way street for many, profoundly influencing Taiwan's democratization process and the development of overseas communities. ^{24 25}

The "Administrative Shackles" of the Martial Law Period: Military Service Exit Controls

Beyond the Garrison Command's ideological screening, another long-term and widespread restriction affecting Taiwanese men's ability to travel abroad was the strict "military service exit control." During the martial law period, all eligible men (typically aged 19 to 36) who had not yet completed military service had to obtain approval from military authorities to go abroad — whether for study, family visits, or business. This control was designed to ensure national manpower and prevent draft evasion, but it also became a major obstacle for many Taiwanese men seeking overseas development or simply wanting to travel abroad for leisure. ²⁶ Even after tourism was opened in 1979, this restriction remained in place and continued to affect Taiwanese society long after the lifting of martial law. Men subject to service obligations had to apply for an "exit permit," a time-consuming and bureaucratically complex process that limited the number of trips abroad and the duration of stays. This meant that many men had to factor military service into their plans for studying abroad, working holidays, or long-term overseas employment, making it a unique shackle on their "freedom of movement." ^{27 28}

"Come to NTU, Go to America": The Study Abroad Wave and the Physician Exodus During the Cold War

In the 1960s and 1970s, Taiwan experienced two large-scale waves of emigration to the United States, closely tied to the international dynamics of the Cold War.

4.1 The "Brain Drain" and "Grand Tours" of Tech Talent

Benefiting from the U.S.-Soviet Cold War and the space race, the United States had a great need for scientific and technical talent. The U.S. passed the National Defense Education Act in 1958 and a new Immigration Act in 1965. A popular saying in Taiwan at the time went: "Come, come, come, come to National Taiwan University; go, go, go, go to America." This trend peaked between 1965 and 1975. ^{29 30}

4.2 The Physician Wave and "Selling the Farm to Send a Child"

In the late 1960s, the Vietnam War caused a shortage of physicians in the United States, and American hospitals opened slots for graduates of foreign medical schools. Many Taiwanese families even "sold the farm to send a child" abroad, creating a distinct "American Dream" culture. ²⁹ The democratic ideas and consumer habits these students brought back made an indirect but profound contribution to Taiwan's later democratization. ³¹

📝 Curator's Note: These students and physicians later became the backbone of Taiwanese-American communities and reflected the social phenomenon of brain drain in Taiwan at the time.

1979: The First Tourist Passport and "Citizen Diplomacy"

As Taiwan's economy took off in the 1970s, compounded by the diplomatic crisis of the U.S. severing ties with Taiwan in 1979, the government decided to open up "citizen tourism," hoping to break through the diplomatic blockade through grassroots exchange. ³²

On January 1, 1979, Taiwan officially opened outbound tourism. The first person to receive a tourist passport was Ms. Wu Yongchuan. ³³ At the time, each person was limited to two trips per year and was prohibited from traveling to communist countries. ³⁴ Going abroad at that time was a "glorious" event — relatives and friends would form groups to see travelers off at the airport, with a sense of ceremony no less than a military discharge or a wedding. ^{33 30}

1987: The Ice-Breaking Journey of Cross-Strait Family Visits and the Political Implications of Movement

When tourism was opened in 1979, the government explicitly prohibited travel to communist countries. ³¹ However, as cross-strait relations subtly shifted and domestic pressure to open family visits grew — especially from aging veterans longing to return home to see their loved ones while they still could — this ban was broken on November 2, 1987. The government announced the opening of travel to mainland China for family visits, which was not only a major turning point in cross-strait relations but also a milestone in the progression of Taiwanese people's "freedom of movement." ^{35 36}

This policy opening allowed hundreds of thousands of veterans to embark on the journey home and opened the door to cross-strait civilian exchange. From then on, visiting family, traveling, and conducting business in mainland China became one of the important options for Taiwanese going abroad (or "abroad/overseas"), accounting for a large proportion of outbound trips for a long period of time. This history not only demonstrates the importance of "freedom of movement" in the democratization process but also highlights the profound impact of political factors on individual cross-border movement. ^{37 38}

Vanished Landscapes: The U.S. Visa Industry Chain, Foreign Exchange Belts, and Cultural Shocks

In an era without online booking or credit cards, going abroad was filled with a peculiar sense of ritual. These details constitute the unique cross-border memories of the Taiwanese people:

6.1 The AIT "Down Jacket" Legend and the Psychological Battle of the Visa Interview

Obtaining a U.S. visa was the first hurdle for many Taiwanese traveling abroad. The old American Institute in Taiwan (AIT) office on Xinyi Road Section 3 would see queues forming early every morning. The "difficult" questions from interviewers — such as "What will you do in America?", "Why do you want to go to America?", and "What assets do you have in Taiwan?" — made many applicants extremely nervous. Because interviewers often mentioned the cold American weather, a folk saying spread that "the interviewer will ask you if America is cold," which in turn fueled a business around the AIT area selling down jackets and even renting out suits. This was not just commerce — it reflected the longing and anxiety of Taiwanese people toward the "American Dream" at that time. ^{30 39}

6.2 The "Foreign Exchange Belt" and the Underground Economy of Black-Market Currency Exchange

Under strict foreign exchange controls, the government set a cap on the amount of foreign currency each person could exchange per trip (approximately US$2,200 in the early 1980s). However, for those eager to shop lavishly abroad or support children studying overseas, this amount was far from enough. Thus, a special "foreign exchange belt" came into being. This flesh-colored cloth belt contained multiple zippered compartments that could hide excess U.S. dollar bills close to the body. When passing through customs, travelers had to remain calm, terrified of being discovered by customs officers. Beyond the belt, some people sewed U.S. dollars into their underwear or used underground money changers for black-market currency exchange, forming a unique underground economic chain. ^{30 40 41}

It was not until July 15, 1987, that Taiwan formally lifted foreign exchange controls on non-banking entities. This major policy relaxation not only ended the era of the "foreign exchange belt" but also symbolized an important step in Taiwan's economic liberalization, paving the way for citizens' freer overseas consumption and investment. ⁴²

6.3 Pre-Departure Briefings as "Civilization Education" and Cultural Shock: From "the Educated" to "Civilized Travelers"

For many Taiwanese stepping onto the international stage for the first time, encountering foreign cultures was an enormous challenge. Taiwanese society had just transitioned from isolation to openness, and many people lacked awareness of international etiquette and cultural norms. As a result, early Taiwanese tour groups abroad often exhibited some "inappropriate" behavior — such as making loud noises in public, cutting in line, spitting in the street, or behaving without regard for appearances in hotels. These behaviors, in the eyes of the international community at the time, indeed bore similarities to the "civilization gap" faced by some emerging tourism markets today (such as early mainland Chinese tourists). ^{30 31}

To avoid these negative impacts on "citizen diplomacy," the "pre-departure briefings" held by travel agencies before each tour were not just itinerary introductions but a major production of "civilization education." Tour guides would earnestly teach the group various rules of "international etiquette," such as:

• "Don't eat bento boxes on European streets — it's considered uncouth."
• "Don't wash your socks in the hotel sink — please use the laundry service."
• "At buffets, don't take more than you can eat — take only as much as you need to avoid waste."
• "Don't wear slippers in hotel hallways, and don't make loud noises that disturb others."
• "Western-style toilets are used differently from those in Taiwan — pay attention to the flush button, and don't throw toilet paper into the bowl."

These seemingly trivial reminders reflected the enormous gap between Taiwan and the international community in daily habits and cultural etiquette at the time. However, through this continuous process of being "educated" and self-correction, Taiwanese people gradually learned the behavioral norms of the international community, elevating their travel etiquette to the level they enjoy today, welcomed by countries around the world. This journey from "the educated" to "civilized travelers" was not just a change in individual behavior but a microcosm of Taiwanese society's collective learning, adaptation to international rules, and ultimate international recognition. ^{43 44}

6.4 The Must-Buy List and the Bittersweet Reality of "Proxy Shopping"

In an era of relative material scarcity, those who went abroad often shouldered the "proxy shopping" demands of relatives and friends. The must-buy list of that era was incredibly varied — from practical thermos bottles and durable stockings, to advanced electronics (such as VCRs and stereo systems), to foreign goods unavailable in Taiwan. Some people were even asked to bring Tatung rice cookers back to Taiwan. Upon returning, to avoid high tariffs, many people would wear new clothes directly on their bodies or remove product packaging and mix items into old belongings, engaging in a battle of wits with customs officers in a game of "cat and mouse." The bittersweet experiences of "proxy shopping" became a unique memory of going abroad for Taiwanese people of that era. ^{30 45}

The Post-Martial Law Explosion and Diverse Movement (1990s–2010s)

After the lifting of martial law, foreign exchange controls were relaxed, and outbound tourism entered a period of explosive growth. Southeast Asian group tours were popular in the 1990s, followed by Japanese free independent travel and in-depth European and American tours as mainstream choices. The rise of low-cost carriers and the Working Holiday policy made going abroad no longer a luxury for the younger generation but a process of self-exploration. ^{46 47}

Contemporary Challenges: Revenge Travel and the Significance of Freedom of Movement

The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 led to three years of global border closures. After restrictions were lifted in 2023, Taiwan experienced an unprecedented wave of "revenge travel." ⁴⁸ According to Tourism Bureau statistics, the number of outbound trips in 2024 has nearly returned to pre-pandemic peaks. ⁴⁹

Today's Taiwan passport ranks among the top tier on the Henley Passport Index, enjoying visa-free access to more than 140 countries. ⁵⁰ From "Police Headquarters approval" to "worldwide access," this is not only a demonstration of economic strength but also the ultimate realization of the "right to freedom of movement" in Taiwan's democratization process.

📝 Closing Note: Every stamp in a passport is a right fought for by generations. From island-bound residents to free travelers, the history of Taiwanese people going abroad is a history of the pursuit of freedom.